For ABS and other polymers i need a better hotbed than the one shipped by default with my 3drag. Basically i need a better leveled surface and a more hot plate. So, my solution is to buy the 90 degree declared standard hotbed for 3drag and modify it to reach up to 150 degree, and add a mirror on top of that.

First, i will reverse upside down the hotbed to get the hotter part of the hotbed attached directly to the downside of the mirror. To do that i need to modify it with my dremel tool a little bit, and then to use my dremel on the downside of the mirror too.

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(…when you work on glass/mirrors, this is how your tool will be when you finish:
wpid-img_20141022_064629.jpg )

To better thermal isolation a layer of kapton tape is added on the “now downside” of the hotbed PCB

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Also, the standard thermal isolation is added

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then, some double side tape and thermal paste on the downside of the mirror

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 and the mirror is attached on top of the PCB

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after some tests, some issues raised:

  • the double side tape mold at ~ 85 degree, making the mirror moving
  • too heat is disperded on the metal mount
  • the termistor is in a bad position: as PCB vetronite isn’t a great heat conductor, it measure only 50 degree when the plate is 90 degree
  • the screw are too close to the mirror borders, making it don’t adhere perfectly to the PCB

So, i’m going in a new and better try.

First of all, i moved the termistor to the center of the now downside of the bed, building two traces with my dremel on the copper plated surface.

 wpid-img_20141101_055641.jpg wpid-img_20141101_060426.jpg

 carefully soldering the termistor inside a little hole at the center of the plate with a large insulating zone.

To get better adherence with the mirror, i very carefully milled mirror borders where screws are on the PCB:

wpid-img_20141101_112130.jpg

 Next issue to solve is to get a better thermal isolation on the downside of the heatbed, so, i’ve added a plywood layer:
wpid-img_20141101_081255.jpg wpid-img_20141101_081302.jpg wpid-img_20141101_111911.jpg 

and fixed it with some aluminium profiles and screws

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then, using an high temperature (up to 180 degree) double side tape, fixed the mirror on top:

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Let’s go testing:
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with 15V 150W power supply on the original board i can get up to 100 degree in 5 minutes. Let’s mount it on the printer.
After a first print test with hotbed at 80 degree, next step will be the 24V modification…
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3d printable 35mm din rail enclosure for electronic boards